How to Develop Color Film at Home

The development steps I’m sharing are for C-41 compatible film. You can check on your film’s canister to see if it uses the C-41 process. Here are some C-41 films I’ve used/developed at home: Ektar 100, Kodak Color Plus 200, Fujifilm Super 400.

Mixing Your Chemicals

I use the unicolor C-41 powder chemicals. They come in clearly labeled packets with full instructions for mixing. A mixed batch of chemicals can process multiple rolls of film, so you won’t need to mix new chemicals each time. Be sure to read the instructions for your specific C-41 chemicals.

NOTE: Wear the appropriate PPE while mixing your chemicals. I wear gloves, glasses, and a face mask.

Heat up distilled water to 110°F (43.5°C). I place a 1 gallon jug of distilled water into a bath of sink water, and attach the sous vide at 110°F. I like using the sous vide because it gives a readout of the current temperature, but I still use a thermometer to check the internal temperature of the distilled water.

Mix Developer into 800ml of the heated distilled water in a clean container. I use a dedicated spatula to mix the developer because you don’t want any external things mixing with your chemicals. Once the developer seems mixed, add more of the distilled water to equal 1000ml total solution. I then use a funnel to help pour my mixed developer into a light-proof chemical bottle, label it “DEV”, and screw the lid on.

Add Blix (packet A) into 800ml of the heated distilled water in a clean container, then follow with Blix (packet B). I use a dedicated spatula for this chemical as well. Add more of the distilled water (1000ml total). Pour the mixed Blix into a light-proof chemical bottle, label it “BLIX”, and screw the lid on.

Mix Stabilizer contents into 1000ml distilled water in a clean container. Again, I use a dedicated spatula for this chemical. Keeping your chemicals clean/separate will help them to last longer. Pour the mixed Stabilizer into a light-proof chemical bottle, label it “STAB”, and screw the lid on.

Mix PhotoFlo (2ml) into 400ml of distilled water in a clean container. I just pour it into an old water bottle and shake it up a little. This solution is optional but I find it helps my film dry without water spots.

If you plan on developing your film at a later time, you can safely store the chemical bottles until then. But if you are ready to start developing, place the DEV and BLIX bottles back in the water bath and set the sous vide to 102°F.

Dark Bag Process

While the chemicals are heating up, I start to load the film onto the Patterson Tank reels. This entire process must be done in complete darkness or your film will be ruined from light exposure.

To get started, I load up my dark bag with everything I’ll need:

film(s)
film canister opener
scissors
Patterson Tank reel(s)
Patterson Tank (+ reel holder insert/center column, funnel lid)
paper towel

NOTE: I recommend practicing this step with a test roll of already developed or old/expired film. This will let you get familiar with loading the film onto the reels without the pressure of ruining your film. I like to practice with my eyes closed or just looking away, so I can better prepare for actually doing it in the dark bag.

In your sealed dark bag:

Open your film canister using the opener at the bottom of the film canister, and slide your film out.

Use scissors to trim off the film leader. Try your best to cut straight across to create an even edge. Feel the new cut end for any little jags in the feeder ends, and trim a little more if needed. You want a smooth edge to feed into the reel.

Feed the cut edge of film into the Patterson Tank reel. I like to feel for the little protrusion on the reel to know where to feed in the film. Gently insert the film until the little balls in the reel catch on the film feeder holes.

Ratchet the reel gently to load the film. This part is where things get tricky. Your hands are in the dark bag, so you can’t see what’s going on. You really have to rely on what you feel and what you can hear. If you’ve practiced a bit, you are familiar with what this process feels like. Keep loading the film until you get to the end of the roll.

Trim off the end of the roll with your scissors.

Place the reel on to the reel holder/center column, and place into the Patterson Tank. If you brought in two rolls of film to develop into the dark bag, repeat this process with the second roll and add the second reel to the center column as well.

Lock the funnel lid onto the Patterson Tank until you hear the click. Once you have locked on the lid, your film is light-sealed in the canister. You can now safely take the tank out of the dark bag.

C41 Development Process

Once your film is loaded on the reels and locked inside the Patterson Tank, you are ready to start the development process. I like to use the free app, Develop!, to help me with the timing of everything. You can use any timer/phone/clock to help you keep time.

Pre-soak your film for 1 minute with 102°F water. You pour the water directly into the funnel lid, keeping the tank locked. Then dump out the water. The water may look green or purple as it pours out.

Pour in Developer at 102°F and agitate using the agitation stick for the first 10 seconds. Then put the lid on tightly and invert the canister upside down and back upright four times every 30 seconds for 3.5 minutes. This is why I like to use the Develop! app — you have to keep an eye on the 30 second timer as well as the 3.5 minute timer. The app makes it extra easy for me. Then use a funnel to pour the DEV back into its chemical storage bottle.

Pour in Blix at 102°F and agitate using the agitation stick for the first 10 seconds. Then put the lid on tightly and invert the canister upside down and back upright four times every 30 seconds for 6.5 minutes. I find that the lid can start to expand a bit with the Blix, so I will open the lid to release the air in between an inversion cycle. After the 6.5 minutes, use a funnel to pour the BLIX back into its chemical storage bottle.

At this point, your film is safe to remove the locking funnel lid.

Wash the film under warm running water for 3 minutes.

Pour in Stabilizer and agitate for the first 15 seconds. Then let sit for 45 seconds. Use a funnel to pour the STAB back into its chemical storage bottle.

Rinse film with Photo-Flo (optional) and shake off excess water from film (still in the reel). Dump used Photo-Flow down the drain.

Dry The Film

Remove the film from the reel and add a clip to one end.

Hang film to dry in a clean room for 1.5 hours or until dry. I like to hang my film on the shower curtain rod since it’s high enough from the ground and it’s isolated from extra dust.

Digitize Your Film

Once your film is developed and dry, you’ll want to digitize it in order to view, upload, or share your photos. I use a photo scanner, but there are a few ways to do this.

I use the Epson Perfection V600 Photo scanner which comes with film trays and software so I can edit my photos.

Final Thoughts

I am really enjoying my film cameras and the process of developing my own film. It feels very vintage and authentic. I am completely a novice and only occasionally take pictures/develop film; it’s all for fun. So if you are like me, don’t be intimidated by the process. As you can see, it’s easier and more forgiving than you might have thought.

If you are interested in film photography and curious about the development process, I definitely recommend trying it out. It’s a lot of fun it’s really rewarding to be involved in every step of the film/photography process.

My Cameras

What You Need to Develop Film at Home